Nasi Lemak

Nasi lemak means rich rice, referring to the coconut milk in which it is cooked rather than to any luxury of ingredients. It is Malaysia's national dish and is eaten most commonly at breakfast, though it is available all day.

It is also eaten in Singapore, Brunei and parts of Indonesia and southern Thailand. In Malaysia it crosses every community and price point, sold from roadside stalls in banana-leaf parcels and served in restaurants on plates.

The traditional wrapping in banana leaf is functional as well as attractive: it keeps the rice warm, is entirely portable, and imparts a faint fragrance.

Rice is steamed or cooked with coconut milk, salt, and knotted pandan leaves, sometimes with slices of ginger or lemongrass. The grains should be fragrant and separate, glossy but not sticky or greasy.

Sambal is the heart of the dish and the element by which any version is judged. Dried chillies are soaked and blended with shallot, garlic and belacan — fermented shrimp paste — then fried down slowly with tamarind and a little sugar.

A good sambal is dark, thick and sweet-hot-sour all at once, cooked long enough that the raw edge has disappeared entirely. Many stalls build their reputation on it alone.

The classic plate carries crisp fried ikan bilis — small dried anchovies — roasted peanuts, sliced cucumber, and a hard-boiled or fried egg. Those five elements plus rice and sambal constitute nasi lemak in its plain form.

From there additions are common: fried chicken, rendang, squid sambal, or curry. A full restaurant version can be substantial, while the banana-leaf parcel remains small and cheap.

The intended experience is contrast in every mouthful: rich rice, fiery sambal, salty crunch from the anchovies, and cool cucumber to reset.