Sauerbraten

Sauerbraten means sour roast, and the sourness is the point. Beef is steeped for several days in a marinade of vinegar, wine, water, onion and spices before it is ever cooked.

The technique began as preservation and tenderisation. Acid extends the life of meat without refrigeration and breaks down tough connective tissue, which made cheaper, harder-working cuts palatable. What began as necessity became the defining flavour of one of Germany's best-known dishes.

It is prepared throughout Germany, but the Rhineland version is the most famous, and Rhenish practice supplies the distinctive finish described below. Regional variants elsewhere use different meats and different balances of sweet and sour.

A joint of beef, typically from the rump or shoulder, is submerged for anywhere from two to five days, turned daily. The marinade carries bay, juniper, cloves, peppercorns and mustard seed, and it will darken the meat noticeably.

The roast is then dried, browned hard, and braised slowly with the strained marinade until it is tender enough to yield to a fork.

The Rhineland finish is the memorable part. The braising liquid is thickened with crushed Aachener Printen or another spiced gingerbread, sometimes with raisins, producing a dark gravy that is simultaneously sour, sweet and heavily spiced. It is an unusual combination on paper and works far better than it sounds.

Sauerbraten is Sunday and holiday food, precisely because the days of marinating make it impossible to prepare on impulse. Planning is built into the recipe.

It is served with something to carry the gravy: potato dumplings, boiled potatoes or Spätzle, and usually braised red cabbage, whose own sweet-sour seasoning echoes the sauce. Applesauce appears in some regions.

The meat is sliced fairly thin and generously sauced, and like most braises it is widely considered better reheated the following day.