Adobo

Cooking meat in vinegar was practised in the Philippine islands long before European contact. In a hot, humid climate without refrigeration, acid was a practical preservative, and simmering meat in vinegar and salt kept it edible for days.

When Spanish colonisers encountered the technique they called it adobo, from the Spanish for marinade or pickling sauce. The name stuck, even though the Filipino dish is distinct from Spanish and Latin American preparations that share the word.

Soy sauce, now considered essential to the most familiar version, reflects centuries of Chinese trade and settlement in the islands. Older and regional versions omit it entirely — adobong puti, or white adobo, uses only vinegar and salt and is closer to the original method.

Pork belly or chicken is simmered with vinegar, soy sauce, plenty of crushed garlic, whole black peppercorns and bay leaves. Coconut vinegar or cane vinegar is traditional and gives a rounder flavour than harsh distilled vinegar.

One rule is widely observed: do not stir the pot until the vinegar has boiled off its raw edge. Stirring too early is said to leave a sharp, unpleasantly acidic taste. After that the meat simmers until tender.

Many cooks then reduce the sauce hard and fry the meat in its own rendered fat, so the exterior caramelises and the sauce clings. That final step is what separates a memorable adobo from a merely serviceable one.

There is no authoritative recipe. Adobo varies by island, town and family, and Filipinos will readily tell you that their own mother's version is the correct one. Some add coconut milk, some sugar, some pineapple, some potatoes or hard-boiled eggs; the ratio of vinegar to soy is a matter of household doctrine.

Because the acid and salt preserve it, adobo keeps well and is widely held to improve over two or three days as the flavours settle. It travels well in lunchboxes, which has helped make it the dish Filipinos abroad most often cook to feel at home.