Lahmacun

Lahmacun is associated above all with southeastern Turkey and cities such as Gaziantep and Şanlıurfa, and closely related flatbreads are eaten across the northern Levant and in Armenian and Syrian cooking. The name derives from Arabic words meaning meat with dough.

It is bakery and street food rather than home cooking, because it depends on an oven far hotter than a domestic one. Neighbourhood bakeries traditionally baked customers' prepared trays, and dedicated lahmacun shops now do the same at speed.

Calling it Turkish pizza is common shorthand abroad and irritates many Turks, since the dough is unleavened and cracker-thin, there is no cheese, and the eating method is completely different.

The dough is rolled extremely thin and stays soft and pliable rather than crisp, which matters because the finished bread must roll without cracking.

The topping is a paste rather than a scatter: minced lamb or beef worked together with finely chopped onion, tomato, red pepper, parsley and garlic, seasoned with paprika, pepper paste and often a little chilli. It is spread in a very thin layer right to the edges.

Because the layer is so thin, the bake takes only a couple of minutes in a fierce wood-fired oven. The meat cooks through just as the dough sets, and any longer produces a dry, brittle result.

Lahmacun arrives with lemon wedges, flat-leaf parsley, sliced onion and often tomato and pickled chillies. The standard method is to squeeze lemon generously over the surface, pile salad along one side, and roll it into a cylinder to eat by hand.

The lemon is not optional in local practice — the acidity is what balances the fat of the meat and the sweetness of the pepper paste.

It is inexpensive and eaten quickly, often standing, and typically accompanied by ayran, a salted yoghurt drink.